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Skincare ingredient glossary

Every entry below comes from the same database Nitavera's product checker uses — 118 ingredient groups covering 300+ INCI label names. Plain English, no marketing: what each one does, which ones can clog pores or irritate reactive skin, and what to double-check during pregnancy.

Check a product against your skin →

Actives — the workhorses

Salicylic Acid

BHA exfoliant — unclogs pores. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: bha, betaine salicylate

Pairings: AHA + BHA; Retinoid + BHA; Salicylic acid + benzoyl peroxide; Vitamin C + BHA; Copper peptides + BHA

Willow Bark

Natural salicin. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: salix alba, salix

Sodium Salicylate

Salicylate. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: magnesium salicylate

Glycolic Acid

AHA exfoliant. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Pairings: AHA + BHA; AHA + niacinamide; Retinoid + AHA; Vitamin C + AHA; Kojic acid + AHA; Copper peptides + AHA

Lactic Acid

AHA exfoliant.

Pairings: AHA + BHA; AHA + niacinamide; Retinoid + AHA; Vitamin C + AHA; Kojic acid + AHA; Copper peptides + AHA

Mandelic Acid

AHA exfoliant.

Pairings: AHA + BHA; AHA + niacinamide; Retinoid + AHA; Vitamin C + AHA; Kojic acid + AHA; Copper peptides + AHA

Retinol

Retinoid. No published pore-clogging rating found for retinol itself (not scored). Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin. The AAD says to avoid retinoids during pregnancy.

On labels as: retinal, retinaldehyde, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinoid

Pairings: Retinoid + AHA; Retinoid + BHA; Retinoid + benzoyl peroxide; Retinol + vitamin C; Can you use retinol and vitamin C together?; Ceramides + retinol; Niacinamide + retinol; Niacinamide + hyaluronic acid; Niacinamide + ceramides; PHA + retinoid; Sulfur + retinoid; Azelaic acid + retinoid

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinol ester. Fulton rates vitamin A palmitate 1-3/5 depending on the raw-material source, so no single number is shown. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: vitamin a palmitate

Adapalene

Prescription-grade retinoid for acne. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin. The AAD says to avoid retinoids during pregnancy.

Pairings: Adapalene + benzoyl peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide

Acne treatment. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

Pairings: Adapalene + benzoyl peroxide; Retinoid + benzoyl peroxide; Salicylic acid + benzoyl peroxide; Sulfur + benzoyl peroxide; Vitamin C + benzoyl peroxide

Azelaic Acid

Acid.

Pairings: Azelaic acid + retinoid

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3.

On labels as: nicotinamide

Pairings: Niacinamide + retinol; Niacinamide + vitamin C; AHA + niacinamide

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (antioxidant).

On labels as: ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ethyl ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Pairings: Vitamin C + AHA; Vitamin C + BHA; Vitamin C + benzoyl peroxide; Retinol + vitamin C; Can you use retinol and vitamin C together?; Niacinamide + vitamin C; Hyaluronic acid + vitamin C; Copper peptides + vitamin C; Vitamin C + vitamin E; Vitamin C + ferulic acid

Tranexamic Acid

Acid.

Alpha Arbutin

Skin-care active.

On labels as: alpha-arbutin, arbutin

Hydroquinone

Skin-lightening agent; often prescription-only (use under a dermatologist's guidance). Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

Bakuchiol

Plant-derived compound. No published pore-clogging rating found (not scored). Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: psoralea corylifolia extract, babchi

Kojic Acid

Skin-care active. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: kojic dipalmitate

Pairings: Kojic acid + AHA

PHA

Exfoliating acid.

On labels as: gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, polyhydroxy acid, gluconic acid

Pairings: PHA + retinoid

Sulfur

Dries out spots & absorbs excess oil.

On labels as: sulphur, colloidal sulfur

Pairings: Sulfur + benzoyl peroxide; Sulfur + retinoid

Antioxidants & brighteners

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Antioxidant (vitamin E). A 1989 rabbit-ear study rates plain tocopherol 0-3/5 depending on the raw-material source (weak evidence), so no single number is shown.

On labels as: tocopherol, vitamin e

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant — vitamin E acetate form. Low comedogenic rating (0/5).

On labels as: tocopheryl acetate

Green Tea

Plant extract.

On labels as: camellia sinensis

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative sulfite — possible allergen.

On labels as: sodium metabisulphite, sodium bisulfite, sodium sulfite, potassium metabisulfite

Ferulic Acid

Antioxidant.

Resveratrol

Plant-derived compound. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

Caffeine

Skin-care active.

On labels as: coffea arabica seed extract, coffee seed extract

Licorice Root

Plant extract.

On labels as: licorice root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, licorice extract

Propolis

Bee-derived ingredient (possible allergen). No published pore-clogging rating found (not scored).

On labels as: propolis extract, bee propolis, propolis cera

Peptides

Peptides

Peptide.

On labels as: palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, matrixyl, palmitoyl oligopeptide

Copper Peptides

Copper peptide. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: copper peptide, copper tripeptide-1, ghk-cu, copper tripeptide

Pairings: Copper peptides + AHA; Copper peptides + BHA; Copper peptides + vitamin C

Hydrators & humectants

Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant.

On labels as: sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Pairings: Hyaluronic acid + vitamin C; Hyaluronic acid + retinol; Hyaluronic acid + AHA; Hyaluronic acid + BHA; Niacinamide + hyaluronic acid; Ceramides + hyaluronic acid

Glycerin

Humectant.

On labels as: glycerol

Panthenol

Provitamin B5.

On labels as: pro-vitamin b5, provitamin b5

Urea

Humectant.

Propylene Glycol

Humectant / solvent.

Caprylyl Glycol

Preservative booster.

Butylene Glycol

Humectant / solvent.

On labels as: pentylene glycol, propanediol

Betaine

Humectant from beets.

Sodium PCA

Humectant — part of skin's NMF.

Aloe Vera

Botanical.

On labels as: aloe barbadensis

Snail Mucin

Snail-derived ingredient. No published pore-clogging rating found (not scored).

On labels as: snail secretion filtrate, snail slime extract

Honey

Humectant.

On labels as: mel, honey extract

Polyglutamic Acid

Humectant.

On labels as: sodium polyglutamate, gamma-pga

Trehalose

Sugar humectant.

Beta-Glucan

Hydrator from oats & yeast.

On labels as: beta glucan, sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan

Ectoin

Skin-care ingredient.

On labels as: ectoine

Zinc PCA

Zinc salt.

Barrier & soothing

Ceramides

Rebuilds the skin barrier.

On labels as: ceramide

Pairings: Ceramides + retinol; Ceramides + hyaluronic acid; Niacinamide + ceramides

Centella Asiatica

Plant extract.

On labels as: cica, madecassoside, asiaticoside

Allantoin

Skin-conditioning ingredient.

Colloidal Oatmeal

Oat-derived ingredient.

On labels as: avena sativa

Zinc Oxide

Mineral SPF. Low comedogenic rating (1/5).

Bisabolol

Chamomile-derived compound.

Sunscreen (UV) filters

Titanium Dioxide

Mineral SPF. Low comedogenic rating (0/5).

Avobenzone

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bmdbm, parsol 1789

Octinoxate

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octyl methoxycinnamate, emc

Oxybenzone

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: benzophenone-3, benzophenone 3, bp-3

Homosalate

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: homomenthyl salicylate

Octisalate

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate

Octocrylene

Chemical UV filter. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

Modern UV Filters (Tinosorb)

Modern UV filters — broad-spectrum, low-absorption.

On labels as: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bemotrizinol, tinosorb s, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bisoctrizole, tinosorb m

Ensulizole

Water-soluble chemical UVB filter.

On labels as: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, pbsa

Emollients, oils & occlusives

Squalane

Lightweight emollient. Low comedogenic rating (1/5).

On labels as: squalene

Dimethicone

Silicone. Low comedogenic rating (1/5). Cyclomethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are different silicones - Fulton rates them 0/5.

Shea Butter

Rich butter for dry skin — no published pore-clogging rating found (not scored).

On labels as: butyrospermum parkii

Petrolatum

Occlusive.

On labels as: petroleum jelly

Coconut Oil

Rich oil — no published pore-clogging rating found for coconut oil itself (not scored). The 1989 Fulton table rates coconut butter, a different ingredient, 4/5.

On labels as: cocos nucifera

Coconut Butter

Heavy butter — comedogenic. Comedogenic rating 4/5.

On labels as: coconut butter

Cocoa Butter

Heavy butter — comedogenic. Comedogenic rating 4/5.

On labels as: theobroma cacao

Isopropyl Myristate

Texture agent — often pore-clogging. Comedogenic rating 5/5.

On labels as: isopropyl myristate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Texture agent — often pore-clogging. Comedogenic rating 4/5.

On labels as: isopropyl palmitate

Myristyl Myristate

Texture agent — often pore-clogging. Comedogenic rating 5/5.

On labels as: myristyl myristate

Lanolin

Occlusive — a possible allergen. Fulton rates lanolin derivatives anywhere from 0 to 4 out of 5 depending on the derivative (lanolin alcohol and anhydrous lanolin 0-2 or 0-1, acetylated lanolin alcohol 4).

Wheat Germ Oil

Heavy oil.

On labels as: triticum vulgare

Jojoba Oil

Light oil. Fulton rates it 0-2/5 depending on the source.

On labels as: simmondsia chinensis, jojoba

Rosehip Oil

Plant oil.

On labels as: rosa canina, rosehip

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Emollient. No published pore-clogging rating found (not scored).

On labels as: caprylic capric triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol. Low comedogenic rating (2/5).

On labels as: cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are separate ingredients - Fulton rates both 2/5.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier & emollient. Fulton rates the NSE form 1/5 and the SE form 3/5.

Cetyl Esters

Emollient / texture. Low comedogenic rating (1/5).

On labels as: cetyl esters

Fatty Alcohols (myristyl, lauryl)

Fatty alcohols. Myristyl alcohol: comedogenic rating (2/5). Lauryl alcohol: no published rating.

On labels as: myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, fatty alcohol

Argan Oil

Plant oil. No published pore-clogging rating found (not scored).

On labels as: argania spinosa kernel oil, argania spinosa

Sunflower Seed Oil

Plant oil.

On labels as: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus, sunflower oil

Safflower Oil

Plant oil. Rated 1-2 out of 5 for pore-clogging in a 1983 rabbit-ear study and 0 in a 1989 one; the studies disagree (weak evidence).

On labels as: safflower seed oil, carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil

Marula Oil

Rich oleic oil.

On labels as: sclerocarya birrea seed oil, sclerocarya birrea

Grapeseed Oil

Emollient oil. Rated 2-3 out of 5 for pore-clogging in a 1983 rabbit-ear study we could not re-check (weak evidence).

On labels as: grape seed oil, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil

Tamanu Oil

Nutty emollient oil.

On labels as: calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, calophyllum inophyllum, foraha oil

Fragrance, cleansers & surfactants

Fragrance

Scent. DermNet NZ lists fragrances among the ingredients that most often cause cosmetic contact reactions. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

On labels as: parfum, aroma

Essential Oils

Botanical scent — can irritate sensitive skin. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin. Pregnancy: check with your doctor first.

On labels as: essential oil, limonene, linalool, citral, geraniol, eugenol, citronellol, menthol, peppermint oil, lavender oil, tea tree, melaleuca

Denatured Alcohol

Solvent — can irritate or dry skin. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

On labels as: alcohol denat, sd alcohol, ethanol. Isopropyl alcohol is a different ingredient - Fulton rates it 0/5.

Witch Hazel

Astringent — can irritate or dry skin.

On labels as: hamamelis

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

Cleansing surfactant. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

On labels as: sls

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Cleansing surfactant.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Foaming surfactant.

On labels as: sles

Gentle Glucoside Cleanser

Cleansing surfactant.

On labels as: coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionate

Bases, preservatives, colour & everything else

Algae Extract

Algae extract.

Methylisothiazolinone

Preservative — a possible contact allergen. Can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

On labels as: methylchloroisothiazolinone

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative.

Water

Base / solvent.

On labels as: aqua, eau

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin-conditioning preservative-booster.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative.

Benzyl Alcohol

Preservative / solvent.

Xanthan Gum

Thickener.

Carbomer

Gel thickener.

On labels as: acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Citric Acid

pH adjuster (trace amount).

Sodium Hydroxide

pH adjuster (trace amount).

Disodium EDTA

Stabilizer / chelator.

On labels as: tetrasodium edta, edta

Silica

Mattifying texture agent.

Parabens

Preservatives.

On labels as: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, paraben

Polysorbates

Emulsifiers — blend oil and water. Fulton rates polysorbate 20 and 80 at 0/5; polysorbate 60 has no published row.

On labels as: polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate

Sorbitan Esters

Emulsifiers. Sorbitan oleate: comedogenic rating (3/5). Sorbitan laurate and isostearate: (1-2/5). Sorbitan stearate: low comedogenic rating (0/5).

On labels as: sorbitan oleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan isostearate

Clays

Absorbent clays — can be drying.

On labels as: kaolin, bentonite, montmorillonite, china clay, fuller's earth, clay

Talc

Mineral powder. Low comedogenic rating (1/5).

On labels as: talcum

Mica

Mineral shimmer / colorant (inert).

On labels as: ci 77019, potassium aluminum silicate

Iron Oxides

Mineral color pigments (inert, non-reactive).

On labels as: iron oxide, ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499

Chlorphenesin

Preservative — a possible allergen; caution while nursing (infant safety).

In-depth guides

  • Adapalene
  • Allantoin
  • Aloe vera: is it comedogenic?
  • Argan oil on an ingredient list: where Cleveland Clinic and Healthline differ
  • Azelaic Acid
  • Bakuchiol vs retinol: what one study actually found
  • Benzoyl Peroxide
  • Butylene glycol
  • Caffeine in skincare: what Cleveland Clinic says it can and cannot do
  • Caprylic/capric triglyceride
  • Caprylyl glycol
  • Centella asiatica (cica) in skincare: what Cleveland Clinic says
  • Ceramides
  • Cetearyl alcohol
  • Cocoa butter on an ingredient list: what Cleveland Clinic, Healthline and WebMD say
  • Coconut oil on an ingredient list: what Cleveland Clinic and WebMD say
  • Colloidal oatmeal on an ingredient list: what DermNet says
  • Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)
  • Denatured alcohol
  • Dimethicone
  • Ethylhexylglycerin: is it comedogenic?
  • Fragrance
  • Glycerin in skincare: what an ingredient list can tell you
  • Glycolic Acid (AHA)
  • Honey on an ingredient list: what DermNet and Healthline say
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Hydroquinone: a skin-lightening medicine, what the sources say
  • Jojoba oil on an ingredient list: what Cleveland Clinic and Healthline say
  • Kojic Acid
  • Lactic acid in skincare: one of the gentler AHAs
  • Lanolin on an ingredient list: what DermNet says about allergy and irritation
  • Mandelic acid in skincare: what the sources say
  • Methylisothiazolinone on an ingredient list: what DermNet says about this preservative allergy
  • Niacinamide
  • Oxybenzone on an ingredient list: what DermNet and Cleveland Clinic say
  • Panthenol in skincare: what provitamin B5 means on a label
  • Parabens on an ingredient list: where DermNet, Cleveland Clinic and WebMD differ
  • Petrolatum (petroleum jelly): what the AAD and Healthline say
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Propylene glycol
  • Retinol
  • Rosehip oil on an ingredient list: what Cleveland Clinic and WebMD say
  • Salicylic Acid (BHA)
  • Shea butter on an ingredient list: where Cleveland Clinic and WebMD differ
  • Sodium lauryl sulfate on an ingredient list: what Healthline and WebMD say
  • Squalane in skincare: the spelling difference that matters
  • Tea tree oil and acne: what Healthline says
  • Tranexamic acid in skincare: what Healthline reports, and what is small-study evidence
  • Tretinoin: a prescription retinoid, what the sources say
  • Urea in skincare: why product strength matters
  • Vitamin C
  • Vitamin E (tocopherol) on skin: two sources that partly disagree
  • Zinc oxide in sunscreen: what Cleveland Clinic says about mineral sunscreen

Ingredient pairings

  • Adapalene and benzoyl peroxide together: can you use both?
  • AHA and BHA together: can you use two exfoliating acids?
  • AHA and niacinamide together: can you use both?
  • Azelaic acid and a retinoid together: can you use both?
  • Can you use retinol and vitamin C together?
  • Ceramides and retinol together: can you use both?
  • Copper peptides and AHA: the pH clash
  • Copper peptides and BHA (salicylic acid): same routine?
  • Copper peptides and vitamin C: why they blunt each other
  • Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C together: can you use both?
  • Kojic acid and AHA: is it an AHA? Using both
  • Niacinamide and retinol together: can you use both?
  • Niacinamide and vitamin C together: can you use both?
  • PHA and retinoid: the gentle acid question
  • Retinoid and AHA (glycolic/lactic acid): same routine?
  • Retinol, retinoids and benzoyl peroxide: can you use them together?
  • Retinoid and BHA (salicylic acid): same routine?
  • Retinol and vitamin C: what the evidence does and does not say
  • Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide together: usually best separate
  • Sulfur and benzoyl peroxide: two drying acne actives at once
  • Sulfur with retinol or a retinoid: no universal verdict
  • Vitamin C and AHA together: what a label can and cannot tell you
  • Vitamin C and benzoyl peroxide: what we can and cannot say
  • Vitamin C and BHA (salicylic acid): can you use them together?

Comedogenicity ratings and unrated ingredients

  • Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate: is it comedogenic?
  • Ascorbyl palmitate comedogenic rating: what the number means
  • Isopropyl myristate comedogenic rating: what the number means
  • Myristic acid comedogenic rating: what the number means
  • Palmitic acid comedogenic rating: what the number means
  • Retinyl palmitate comedogenic rating: what the numbers mean

More ingredient guides

  • Coconut fruit extract: is it comedogenic?
  • Hypochlorous acid for skin: what a face spray can and cannot do
  • Tribehenin: what it is, and is it comedogenic?

How to read this

"Comedogenic rating" (0–5) is a rough lab measure of pore-clogging potential — it matters most on breakout-prone skin and matters little on skin that never clogs. "Can irritate" means commonly reported irritation on sensitive or compromised skin, not that the ingredient is unsafe. Formulas, concentrations and your own skin all change the picture — that is exactly what the checker weighs for your answers.

Cosmetic guidance, not medical advice. For anything painful, changing, or not improving, see a dermatologist.

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